Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That's what happens when you're the manager and you're the only employee and your mind screwed from working so much.

  • Like 1
Posted
That's what happens when you're the manager and you're the only employee and your mind screwed from working so much.

All good! :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)

I took my Sierra into the dealer at my last services and complained about this. They found no issue. It is very noticeable.

I will have them fix it under warranty (both front seats). 

 

 

Edited by Baldhills
Posted

I had the fix done on my 15 Silverado and the movement and click came back in a few days time. I installed worm clamps to the inside of the bar pressed again inner part of the clip. Drove to a few places so far today and have not had the seat move or click. This thread has helped take care of the only gripe I have had with this truck. 

Posted

After the GM fix, it worked, then came back. Added a hose clamp, it worked, then came back. Added two more clamps (see picture a few posts up), tightened the first clamp, and it worked. So far so good this time with 900 miles on the latest fix.

 

I think clamping down the GM piece and isolating both sides with additional clamps is the ticket. I'll report back if it starts up again.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

My seat was very loose side to side and front to back, it also made popping and creaking  noises especially when making turns with truck. After several trips to Dealer and paying for a half baked repair I had enough. I fixed my self and Installed washers on seat adjuster that moves the seat up and down and seat bottom tilt. The factory bolts threads bottom out and do not allow a tight fit and even with the plastic spacer the Dealer puts in per the bulletin there is still excess play and movement. See pics below with space I am talking about and pics on how to fix. I checked several other seats and they all have the same issue. This is a design flaw from the factory and I can't believe they have not addressed it.

 

Left side upper before fix.jpeg

Left side upper after fix.jpeg

Right side lower before fix.jpeg

Right side lower after fix.jpeg

Edited by 6.2_GMC_DEN
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Ok, based on the above pictures that were shown I fixed mine last night. It literally took me 10 minutes to fix the issue.

 

Push the drivers side seat all the way back and all the way up. There are two up functions on the switch, make sure both the rear and front sections are up. Look by the center console side of the seat on the underside, you will see the motor there that actuates the front of the seat up. It is bolted in a black metal bracket, has a T30 torx bolt holding it in and the bolt is fully seated but has a gap by the head.

 

That is the issue, the gap. You can grab that motor as it is on a rod that goes across the front of the seat and is what rotates the front of the seat up. Grasp the motor and move it side to side, you will hear and feel the "clunk" that is felt when you are turning. Here is the fix, it is stupid easy and simple.

 

You will need some channel lock pliers, a T30 torx bit and a flat washer. Remove the T30 torx bolt and pull it out. You will notice it is a shouldered bolt, only threaded about a 1/4" or so. Now take the pliers and grab the bracket ears and bend them in together slightly. Just enough to take up the gap that allowed the motor to rock side to side. Now with a washer that will slide onto the bolt and down to the head, slide the washer on and then put the motor back into the bracket and slide the bolt/washer back into place and tighten the bolt down. Make sure to not bind the bolt up, check operation of the front height seat motor and make sure it goes up and down properly.

 

Thats it, you have now fixed the seat clunk on the seat. Had mine done for two days now, no more clunk in mine either.

Edited by TJay74
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I did this fix myself using the parts listed in the TSB. PI1376

Here is a pic of the retainer clip.

640fab060f5db6f20f25661a3d857c32.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
16 minutes ago, pgamboa said:

I did this fix myself using the parts listed in the TSB. PI1376

Here is a pic of the retainer clip.

640fab060f5db6f20f25661a3d857c32.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so the fix is basically the black clips?? Do they just snap on? 

  • Like 1
Posted
so the fix is basically the black clips?? Do they just snap on? 

Pretty much. There are two plastic washers that are on the bulletin. It states to install them as well and A tube of lube. I couldn’t get the washers in and left it with just the retainer clip. It’s been over a month and haven’t heard it or felt it move since. It was about $20 for all, $12 was just for the lube.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

The bulletin also says to partially remove the seat cushion, so you can move the the white piece freely to get it lubed well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
ahh, so thats not something you can just reach up under with the clips and pop on then

I’m sure you can. I was just following the directions and it seems that the reason for cushion removal was to remove the bolts to the seat pan, so you can move the white piece, so you can lube it. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi, New here.  2026 Denali HD.  Just purchased 7/2/26. I am having the same issue.  I just traded in my 2024 AT4, and the truck connected to bluetooth and Android Auto Immediately!  Now, with the new HD, it connects when it wants to, which is usually not at all.  I have to use the usb-c cable to get it to connect.  Bluetooth won't even connect without the AA. Now after saying all that, I'll take a 20 min drive with the phone plugged in.  Stop at a store, restaurant, etc....  Get back in my truck and DO NOT plug the phone in.  The truck then decides at this point, lets connect BT & AA and work perfectly, ie how it should.   I have deleted (forget phone) the phone multiple times.  I guess I'll just get used to plugging it in every time. even though I don't think its good for the phone battery to have it on charge after it hits 100%. I have searched all over.  No one else seemed to be having this issue, until I read this thread today.   thanks for reading.
    • I have an issue with my ignition hanging and I have to tilt the steering wheel to get in the off position. I have used a great key lock spray and it doesn't help resolve the issue. Is this an ignition assembly issue or something else. If anyone has a past experience with this please advise.   Thanks  Heath
    • This is a terrible GM warranty experience, two months waiting for a covered engine swap with no loaner or timeline is not allowed under GM’s courtesy transport policy.Escalate straight past regular support to a GM executive case manager, document every closed service ticket and dealer repair paperwork. File a complaint with NHTSA to force faster action, and ask for daily rental reimbursement while your truck is down. If it’s been out of service over 30 days, your state lemon law may let you pursue a full vehicle buyback.
    • 198°F isn't unusually hot for an 8L90, so I don't think temperature alone caused the issue. Since everything returned to normal after the truck sat for several days, I'd be looking at an intermittent electronic or hydraulic control problem before assuming the transmission itself has failed. The first thing I'd do is scan the Transmission Control Module (TCM), not just the ECM. GM transmissions can store manufacturer-specific or history codes that won't trigger a check engine light. I'd check: TCM history and pending DTCs Commanded vs. actual gear Line pressure Shift solenoid status Torque converter clutch (TCC) slip Transmission fluid temperature If it happens again, try to capture the data before cycling the ignition, since some intermittent faults disappear after a restart. A professional scan tool that supports full GM transmission diagnostics makes this much easier. For example, the Foxwell NT809BT can access the TCM, read manufacturer-specific transmission codes, and display live transmission data that's not available on a basic OBD-II reader: https://www.foxwelldiag.com/products/foxwell-nt809bt Hopefully it's just an intermittent control issue, but I'd definitely pull the TCM data before replacing any parts.
    • Sorry, I accidentally posted in the wrong language. I'll repost it in English.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...