Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok guys I have the same issue with my rally 2 with 4000 miles where do I start this sucks

Our 2014 Rally 2 is back in the shop as of this morning. They've road forced the tires a few times, changed all four tires, lubed something that wasn't done when it was built, rebuilt the rear differential, replaced the drive shaft. Luckily we have a dealer that is really working with us. It's been in the shop 5 times now. Biggest improvement was when they rebuilt the deferential. Still vibrates. Be ready to be in it for the long haul. Be nice with the dealership and they'll work with you. If this last trip doesn't fix it we'll be going the lemon law route. Keeping our fingers crossed! Good luck to you!

Posted (edited)

Ok, they pulled and balanced the drive shaft this morning, didn't fix it. They are now looking at the ring and pinion. Parts in tomorrow morning to make the changes. They told me it's defiantly something in the rear end that's causing the vibration.

Crazy thing is, I had zero vibration until about 12,000 miles. Then like a switch it started.

Hope they get it close enough by this Friday as I need the truck this weekend.

Very frustrating to pay this much for a vehicle and it's not 100%.

Looked at a Tahoe LTZ yesterday, might have to dump and run if this doesn't get fixed right.

We also have 22" rims and issues with the back. They completely rebuilt the differential (ring and pinion) and that's where we felt the best improvement. Both readings of the differential and the shaft we WAY off balance from factory. Pretty much the whole truck was built off spec, things weren't lubed where they should have been. I'm wondering what went on when they built ours. It's a Nov. 2014 build. They ordered a brand new shaft built within the last two months and installed that and we didn't feel much of a change after that. Still not fixed though, it's back at the dealer today and the 2015 LT Z71 with 500 miles they gave us as a loaner still has some vibration at highway speeds. We can't win! Edited by Bdkfl
Posted

I wonder how many people have had the body mount service bulletin applied (repositioning and retorquing) on their trucks and whether or not that led to a successful fix.

 

Shimmy, do you have the bulletin handy or happen to know the number? Thanks!

Posted

 

Shimmy, do you have the bulletin handy or happen to know the number? Thanks!

So did you try the body mount re-torque?

Posted (edited)

So did you try the body mount re-torque?

 

I loosened and tightened all of them one by one last night but don't know if it made a difference since I only have a 4 mi commute to work all back roads so haven't had it on the highway yet. I think tonight I'm going to loosen all of them, and the tighten in a diagonal pattern similar to how you would tighten lug nuts. Would love to have the service bulletin to make sure I'm doing the procedure properly. I would try loosening and driving it around a little to get it to resettle but that makes me a little nervous so I will try doing it stationary first.

Edited by hotrodz37
Posted

 

I loosened and tightened all of them one by one last night but don't know if it made a difference since I only have a 4 mi commute to work all back roads so haven't had it on the highway yet. I think tonight I'm going to loosen all of them, and the tighten in a diagonal pattern similar to how you would tighten lug nuts. Would love to have the service bulletin to make sure I'm doing the procedure properly. I would try loosening and driving it around a little to get it to resettle but that makes me a little nervous so I will try doing it stationary first.

Yep was thinking the same thing. But that is what was told to me by the tech/engineer at the shop last week. I didnt know there was a bulletin, I am curious to see this as well. I seem to have the shake in the rear end of the truck. You can see it at 74-80mph in my Snuglid. Seems more like "Beaming" mor than anything.

Posted (edited)

My cab to frame bolts were torqued to 110 lbs from the factory. Lowered them to 70. Best I can say is it may have made a difference. Mine is a 2015.
Joe

Edited by jagabom
Posted (edited)

Hey all might be getting little bad data on the cab mount torque specs. Raptor instructions say 70ft lbs and westin says 95ft lbs. my buddy that is a gm technician will get back with me with what the service manual states

 

http://www.raptorseries.com/installation-instructions/1201-0026M_install.pdf

 

http://www.realtruck.com/shared/pdf/manufacturers/198/75-3023.pdf

Edited by JC84
Posted (edited)

3 main bolts on each side are 122 lb ft. Nuts at front are 52 lb ft. As per GM Service Info.

Edited by tbarn
  • Like 1
Posted

I just read on another site that the middle one is 35 lbs. Thanks JC84 for checking it out for us.

Joe

I second that - Thanks JC, appreciate it! They are definitely 70+lbs each. I checked all of mine yesterday that hadn't been touched since it was new and I put the torque wrench on them before I loosened them and they all clicked at 70ft/lbs. might be more but definitely not under 70. Hope to get some good info soon!

 

Also, I found the cab mount settling procedure. Seems pretty involved:

 

Cab Mount Settling Procedure

Warning: When settling the body cushions, do NOT separate the frame from the body more than is necessary. Possible personal injury and damage to multiple parts may result if you do not follow the guides outlined below:

Intermediate steering shaft—Do not allow the shaft to extend more than 25 mm (1 in).

Fuel tank filler hose—Do not stretch the hose excessively.

Tail/Turn signal lamp wiring/rear lamps junction block—Leave slack in the wires

Park brake cable—Leave slack in the cable.

Body ground straps—Leave slack in the wire

The technician should first loosen the fastener located at the center of each body mount (6 for a regular cab, 8 for crew and double cab).

Using a large angled pry bar, lift up the cab body slightly to settle / relax it. Perform this at each mount location one at a time.

Repeat this cab mount settling process twice, to confirm the mounts are settled / relaxed.

Visually verify that the cab to box alignment is correct before re-torquing all mounts to specification found in Service Information, body repair, frame and under body section.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Hate to hear about your problems and while the shaking sucks how does that show that the truck was "not reliable". Did it break down on you or something?

 

No it didn't leave me stranded and I didn't give it the chance to. Them not knowing what's causing all these truck owners the same issues. ... to me screams unreliable.

Like I said ... I liked my truck...my experience along with many others on this topic has been apparently different than yours.....and I'm glad for you.

 

Posted

Hey all might be getting little bad data on the cab mount torque specs. Raptor instructions say 70ft lbs and westin says 95ft lbs. my buddy that is a gm technician will get back with me with what the service manual states

 

http://www.raptorseries.com/installation-instructions/1201-0026M_install.pdf

 

http://www.realtruck.com/shared/pdf/manufacturers/198/75-3023.pdf

 

JC, I was thinking last night. Do you think your vibration could have been from the steps themselves vibrating in the wind, and when you took them off it fixed it? Just a thought, but hoping it was the actual re-torquing of the body mounts that did it (hoping for my case anyway).

Posted

I was thinking the same thing. Couldnt figure out why he removed the running boards to re-torque.

Posted

I have a 2014 z71 that was bought back by Chevrolet as they claimed to fix the vibration I still have. I purchased knowing it had been an issue at 50 mph, but I was told the problem had been resolved.

I know the dealer I bought it from but would be more comfortable bringing it to another dealer to look at.

Any thoughts on this process?

I did sign an acknowledgementioned that I was made aware of the issue and that another year was added to warranty.

thanks. I did pay far less than market UT just want the vibration to

go away

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I find it amusing the OP doesn’t realize this threads heading includes several engines. He should have posted in the off topic section if he wanted a more narrow focus. I really appreciate and find amusing that he actually pointed out one of my many vehicles. The Odyssey. That happens to use 0-20 oil. I love pushing his buttons. 
    • Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...