Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have had the road force balance done, changed nothing.  Still on the factory tires (I only have 35,000 miles on the truck) and am curious if different tires will change or fix things, but I'm not convinced it is the tires.  I'm looking for a set of cheap used or basic 17" steel wheels to put snow tires on (17" snow tires are a lot cheaper than 22 inchers!).  That will give me the chance to see if there is any difference.  I've also tried the air pressure thing, but I have the 22" wheels with the rubber band tires and if I pump them up, the ride is horrible, but it doesn't change the vibrating at all either.

I really do want to just get rid of the truck, but as mentioned a comparably equipped Ram is just too much right now.  I think it's ridiculous that these trucks have had all these issues and GM just doesn't seem to want to do anything about it.  I am also very unhappy with how I've been treated by the Chevy dealers and Chevy.  I think the front brake pad issue should have been taken care of no questions asked.  Yes, brakes are a wear item, but these obviously had a problem that was not due to normal wear and tear.  I was also not happy that I had to spend more time and effort to finally get a dealership to do the tranny fluid change, especially considering the known issues, TSB's, and the fact GM admitted they put the wrong fluid in them.  Being told that they don't do TSB's because "I" want it done?  Really?  Perhaps if the issue was something that wasn't on all vehicles, but this whole transmission thing is a no brainer, still....

I really don't want to have to go spend more time and money chasing down issues myself...I shouldn't have to.  I am willing to try some things if they're relatively cheap and easy, like the clamps on the leaf springs, but I'm not paying to have the drive shaft balanced or any of the other crap others having to do.

Regardless, even if I do somehow manage to get things relatively straightened out on the cheap, this is my first GM in 20+ years and it will be my last.   

Posted
16 hours ago, EDL said:

I have had the road force balance done, changed nothing.  Still on the factory tires (I only have 35,000 miles on the truck) and am curious if different tires will change or fix things, but I'm not convinced it is the tires.  I'm looking for a set of cheap used or basic 17" steel wheels to put snow tires on (17" snow tires are a lot cheaper than 22 inchers!).  That will give me the chance to see if there is any difference.  I've also tried the air pressure thing, but I have the 22" wheels with the rubber band tires and if I pump them up, the ride is horrible, but it doesn't change the vibrating at all either.

I really do want to just get rid of the truck, but as mentioned a comparably equipped Ram is just too much right now.  I think it's ridiculous that these trucks have had all these issues and GM just doesn't seem to want to do anything about it.  I am also very unhappy with how I've been treated by the Chevy dealers and Chevy.  I think the front brake pad issue should have been taken care of no questions asked.  Yes, brakes are a wear item, but these obviously had a problem that was not due to normal wear and tear.  I was also not happy that I had to spend more time and effort to finally get a dealership to do the tranny fluid change, especially considering the known issues, TSB's, and the fact GM admitted they put the wrong fluid in them.  Being told that they don't do TSB's because "I" want it done?  Really?  Perhaps if the issue was something that wasn't on all vehicles, but this whole transmission thing is a no brainer, still....

I really don't want to have to go spend more time and money chasing down issues myself...I shouldn't have to.  I am willing to try some things if they're relatively cheap and easy, like the clamps on the leaf springs, but I'm not paying to have the drive shaft balanced or any of the other crap others having to do.

Regardless, even if I do somehow manage to get things relatively straightened out on the cheap, this is my first GM in 20+ years and it will be my last.   


wow, haven’t looked at this for a few years.  The first post on this thread was August 4th, 2013.  Now, 854 posts later still hammering away at same’o same’o problems and none-solutions.

Posted
On 12/11/2021 at 9:43 AM, Snoringbear said:


wow, haven’t looked at this for a few years.  The first post on this thread was August 4th, 2013.  Now, 854 posts later still hammering away at same’o same’o problems and none-solutions.

   

  The real sad part about all this is it's not 854 posts it's 854 PAGES of posts which is about  12800 posts and replies !!

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have looked at many of the posts here to see if anyone has done what I have to alleviate these vibrations but I don’t think anyone has. Background: I used to race 1/8 mile asphalt supermods so I never liked the thought of torque restriction electronics or ABS or traction control. I had the vibration problems even when my 2017 Silverado 3500hd WT was new, especially it was felt while slowly shifting from 2nd to 3rd and then to 4th. Modulation of throttle in higher gears also caused vibration.  I removed traction control and ABS fuses and the vibrations are no longer present. Smooth as glass all the way to 90.  I have dash lights now but in the future may be able to take them away with HPtuners.  The truck is a different animal with this easy mod as acceleration is not hindered and is now instant. I am convinced that there are programming issues related to the transmission and torque control. The transmission, 6L90, now shifts firmly also. Love my truck, love every vehicle I’ve ever owned. I mostly tow with my truck so I had to buy a towing brake system since the factory one is disabled when I disabled the ABS. Totally worth it, the trailer brake is better than what came with the truck by far. Good luck to all out there!

  • Like 1
Posted
22 hours ago, WT35002017 said:

I have looked at many of the posts here to see if anyone has done what I have to alleviate these vibrations but I don’t think anyone has. Background: I used to race 1/8 mile asphalt supermods so I never liked the thought of torque restriction electronics or ABS or traction control. I had the vibration problems even when my 2017 Silverado 3500hd WT was new, especially it was felt while slowly shifting from 2nd to 3rd and then to 4th. Modulation of throttle in higher gears also caused vibration.  I removed traction control and ABS fuses and the vibrations are no longer present. Smooth as glass all the way to 90.  I have dash lights now but in the future may be able to take them away with HPtuners.  The truck is a different animal with this easy mod as acceleration is not hindered and is now instant. I am convinced that there are programming issues related to the transmission and torque control. The transmission, 6L90, now shifts firmly also. Love my truck, love every vehicle I’ve ever owned. I mostly tow with my truck so I had to buy a towing brake system since the factory one is disabled when I disabled the ABS. Totally worth it, the trailer brake is better than what came with the truck by far. Good luck to all out there!

LOL, there you go remove TC and ABS and its fixed, gotta love people buying these engineering fails and trying to reengineer a failure. 

Posted

Unfortunately the dealership won’t pay me to spend my time going over with them what is wrong and needs to be fixed. The whole culture of the customer bowing down to the almighty corporations to me is just crazy. When I bought the truck I figured it would take me a little time to sort it out. If the fuel injection system was defective I would have just slapped a carb on it and been more than happy doing it too.  As you can tell, I’ve owned a BMW before…

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

the vibrations I managed to track down , was caused by the torque converter "slip rpm" tables in the tcu.  a quick fix is to drive the druck in 4th or 5th gear and in tow haul, this disables v4 mode tcc slip tables and towhaul should disable tcc depending on your tcu software.

 

really need to reprogram everything on the transmission  software

 

 

when i was messing around with the software in v4 mode, i changed the slip rpm for tcc to as close to 0 rpm as possible to maximize lock up on the highway, well that back fired and gave me tremendous shake and vibrations, so the tcc actually needs slip when lugging the motor so as not to feel the vibes at that low rpm

Edited by pokismoki
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I sold these trucks. I had a customer complain about this. Service department had to put a new drive shaft on it. My 2014 is doing the chevy shake now. I'm going to change drive shaft and rear axles.

Posted
On 4/25/2022 at 7:56 PM, Michael J Dixon said:

I sold these trucks. I had a customer complain about this. Service department had to put a new drive shaft on it. My 2014 is doing the chevy shake now. I'm going to change drive shaft and rear axles.

 If you sold these things and you actually worked at a dealership then you should know The drive shaft does not solve the problem .It's the torque converter that's the problem and if that doesn't fix it then you're gonna be throwing everything at it  

Posted
7 hours ago, Pinnacle said:

 If you sold these things and you actually worked at a dealership then you should know The drive shaft does not solve the problem .It's the torque converter that's the problem and if that doesn't fix it then you're gonna be throwing everything at it  

Any new torque converter or do you have a suggestion? 

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, Dearmosd said:

Any new torque converter or do you have a suggestion? 

Gm has an updated one, so does the aftermarket world. But before doing that there is a new mobil 1 tranny fluid that gm came out with its a tsb.  Do that first 

Edited by Pinnacle
Posted
1 hour ago, Pinnacle said:

Gm has an updated one, so does the aftermarket world. But before doing that there is a new mobil 1 tranny fluid that gm came out with its a tsb.  Do that first 

Thanks for that info Pinnacle. My '16 Silverado 5.3 has the shake. Comes in starting in the low 70 MPH range. Is there a part number or item number for the Mobile 1 trans fluid that you mention?

 

Also, can an independent shop do the fluid flush, or does the truck need to be plugged into a dealer/GM computer for a reflash after the flush is completed. I'd like to avoid the dealer if possible due to no to little faith in their abilities.

 

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...