Jump to content

Seat Movement Issues

jdvaughn

By jdvaughn
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted

Whats the hose clamp trick?

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Really? Have you not read this thread?

 

Sent from my LG-V495 using Tapatalk

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

hotrodz37
hotrodz37

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a few others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I bu

GMC-AT
GMC-AT

whatever... I'm sure 2013 Chevy was perfect and had no issue. I'm sure your 1996 Ford is also perfect and never had any issues ... The truth is that every car/truck, every year has it's issues. Th

tanner709
tanner709

Thanks for this.   Just re-quoting for all the new members because I spent about 20 minutes trying to find the fix, with pics.

Posted Images

cmysstailights Enthusiast

cmysstailights

Posted
Posted

Really? Have you not read this thread?

 

Sent from my LG-V495 using Tapatalk

There is 946 posts, trying to be spared reading through 946 posts

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

caskey_b Enthusiast

caskey_b

Posted
Posted

There is 946 posts, trying to be spared reading through 946 posts

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

look under your seat from the driver side footwell... put a piece of rubber (mine cut from rubber hose) and a hose clamp TIGHT to each side where the white "dodad gadget" is...

 

seat fixed!!!

 

2exms8h.jpg

  • Like 1
cmysstailights Enthusiast

cmysstailights

Posted
Posted

 

look under your seat from the driver side footwell... put a piece of rubber (mine cut from rubber hose) and a hose clamp TIGHT to each side where the white "dodad gadget" is...

 

seat fixed!!!

 

2exms8h.jpg

Thank you

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

likeschevy Enthusiast

likeschevy

Posted
Posted

Ok, lets do this.

 

First, acquire the retainer part. I got mine for $5.08 to the door.

 

attachicon.gif20170616_104234.jpg

 

For 2014-2015, just pop the retainer on the seat bar and put a zip tie around it like the last picture in the PIT5542 doc posted above (post #910).

 

For 2016+:

 

Use some painters tape to outline where you will cut to make the retainer look like the modded one from the GM doc:

 

attachicon.gif20170616_104939.jpg

 

You'll see the molded seam mentioned in the doc.

 

Clamp it lightly into a vice or hold it with vice grips. Either way, be sure that it is stable so you don't F yourself up. I used a towel around a small vice so as not to damage the retainer when clamping it:

 

attachicon.gif20170616_105149.jpg

 

Use a grinder or cutting tool or even a sharp pair of dykes or razor knife (Without cutting yourself. always cut away from your body). I used a small cutter wheel attachment in a drill:

 

attachicon.gif20170616_110010.jpg

 

At first, I wasn't sure if I was to cut only one side until I tried to put it on. The "welded" bracket tabs mentioned in the PIT5542 will most contact the rear of the retainer. Cut both sides the same way and trim away the slag.

 

attachicon.gif20170616_115002.jpg

 

I had to trim mine back a little bit after the initial cut as the retainer wouldn't sit flush. You'll know what looks right and what doesn't when you go to fit it on. Trim back little by little until it fits nice. Move your seat up or down until the retainer sits even with the white guide block (you'll know it when you see it).

 

attachicon.gif20170616_120205.jpg

 

Install a zip tie (I used two since they fit) and trim the tail(s).

 

That's all there is to it. I haven't had time to test it out yet, but that's the full GM dealer fix right there so if this doesn't work then we'll have to figure something else out. For me it was worth the five bucks and doing it myself so as not to waste time and have a dealer monkey crawl around my truck or have them tell me "couldn't replicate problem".

 

Cheers.

thanks for the post made it really simple quick fix parts from the dealer 3.23 finally fixed !!

Brian2015 Enthusiast

Brian2015

Posted
Posted

Drop my 2016 off at the dealer for the second seat frame replacement in 18k miles.

 

UPDATE:

I dropped off the truck, dealer called me a few hours later giving a strange conflicting story about how the tech who replaced my original seat base "forgot to put the bolts back on, which is why it was rocking back and forth. We replaced the bolts and that tightened it right up". That makes absolutely no sense to me because after the original seat base was replaced, I had complete rock solid zero movement for a couple thousand miles. The forward rocking was a progressive sensation that got worse over time. The service writer also that tech was no longer employed there. Then, in a stumbling confused explanation he said the new tech on this job wasn't heavy enough to reproduce the 'complaint' so a heaver tech had to road test my truck. He said they drove a brand new truck off the lot and mine back to back and the seat rocking is normal expected movement from the power seat base. Wait....whaaaaat? The movement that I initially brought the truck in for, is unchanged from when I dropped it off. And when I initially brought up the second seat base movement issue during a regular service appointment, the service writer and tech both agreed the seat base was broken and needed to be replaced.

 

My service invoice says "TORE DRIVERS SEAT APART AND FOUND NO VISUAL EVIDENCE OF ANY CAUSE FOR CONCERN. TEST DROVE SEVERAL TIMES AND HAD SHOP FOREMAN RIDE IN TRUCK. COMPARED TRUCK TO ANOTHER NEW TRUCK ON OUR LOTAND BELIEVE THE MOVEMENT IN THE CUSTOMERS SEAT IS COMPARABLE TO ANOTHER TRUCK WITH AN AUTOMATIC SEAT. DO NOT FEEL AT THIS TIME TEHRE IS ANY REPAIRS TO BE MADE."

No mention of the missing bolts.

 

I also asked them to check my transmission. I am having frequent very hard downshifts with loud clunks. It downshifts so hard it throws you forward. I am also having hard up shifts with a harsh bang and lunge sensation. The service invoice was noted "CUSTOMER STATES THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTS HARD - ALMOST AS IF IT BANGS INTO GEAR - ANY UPDATES AVALABLE? - CHECK AND ADVISE"

 

"TEST DROVE SEVERAL TIMES AND BELIEVE THAT THE NOISES RELATED TO THE SHIFTING ARE NORMAL DRIVE LINE CLUNK. DID NOT FEEL THE TRUCK BANGED INTO ANY GEARS AND IT SHIFTER RATHER SMOOTH. COMPARED TO ANOTHER TRUCK ON THE LOT AND FELT THEY WERE DRIVING THE SAME. CHECKED AND THE TRANSMISSION HAD THE LATEST CALIBRATION AND THERE WERE NO TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS. RELATED TO CUSTOMER'S CONCERN"

 

So there goes that. I am at the point where I feel it is time to start shopping for a different brand of truck.

  • 3 weeks later...
Brian2015 Enthusiast

Brian2015

Posted
Posted

***2nd update***

 

Seat movement has progressively gotten worse and I've had enough. So today I went to the dealer and without explaining why I was there, I got a sales consultant to show me a brand new Silverado. He seemed somewhat confused as to why I was only intrested in the driver seat so I explained why I was there. I drove the new truck and try to reproduce the seat movement. I asked him to watch the seat back for movement, it did not move. Then we went to my  I asked him to drive my truck, he opened the driver's door, grabbed the seat and moved it back and forth and said in in disbelief said "I don't even need to drive your truck this is not right and we're gonna make it right today." He went straight to the service manager and brought him out to the truck and show him what I was referring to by seat movement. 

I drop my truck off next Tuesday they promised to have it fixed.

  • Like 1
Brian2015 Enthusiast

Brian2015

Posted
Posted

"No visual evidence of any cause for concern"....who the F was the tech???? Hellen Keller????

20171025_184025.jpg

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

I didn't go back and read all of this thread, but there are updated parts available from GM to correct issues of seat moving side to side during slow speed turns.  

There is also a bulletin on the issue. 

Maybe this has been posted before.

 

#PIT5542 - Front Seat Lateral Movement

An updated seat frame design  that incorporates welded bracket  to the seat frame pivot bar on each side of the white block.  This helps reduce the excessive lateral seat movement. 

 

Mine was doing the side-to-side movement everyday.

Since the PIT was applied  about 4 month ago the the problem has not recurred. 

Brian2015 Enthusiast

Brian2015

Posted
Posted

Yes, mine was doing the side to side movement and the dealer replaced the seat base frame. Then the forward/rearward movement started....

 

Maritime1 New Member

Maritime1

Posted
Posted (edited)

2016 1500 Silverado LT2 with 15,000miles equipped with leather power seat(s). Drivers seat bottom shifts side to side and makes noise when turning and also the back part of seat doesn't tilt up and down evenly. when i try to adjust the back (tilt forward or back) the rightside will tilt further forward or back until i tilt it all the way forward or upright than i have to tilt it backwards. it also seems where the back meets the bottom of seat the gap isn't even. i.e. ether the bottom part of seat is shifted or the back shifted.  

 

before i go to the dealer and they tell me "we cant replicate the problem" or its normal (just like my shake @ idle- learned to deal with that one) i would like to know if i should be push for new seat or ask for a specific fix? i really dont care what they do as long as they can make it right. 

 

any help appreciated. i tried to find the PSA but had no luck. 

Edited by Maritime1
Brian2015 Enthusiast

Brian2015

Posted
Posted

They most likely won't replace the entire seat, they replace the frame or install the replacement parts as stated in previous posts. I guess it depends on what the find or admit to finding. 

Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted

My fix with the new P/N clip back on page 62 worked good for a few thousand miles, but started loosening up again like some predicted. I bought a #20 1 3/4'' hose clamp from Home Depot and put it around the GM clip and synched it down. Much tighter than the two plastic zip ties I had holding it in place before.

 

I'd have to image a GM clip and a hose clamp combo is the ultimate fix here apart from a redesigned seat frame.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...