Jump to content

Noise after headers install

ajmalian

By ajmalian
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

cbrsilv15 Senior Enthusiast

cbrsilv15

Posted
Posted

I put jba shortys on my last truck and had a leak right away. Tried oem gaskets, some gaskets from Autozone, and even straight red silicone. Still leaked up to the day I sold it. I wasn't sold on headers.

Kbuell21 Enthusiast

Kbuell21

Posted
Posted

They said I could wrap them and it might help with the ticking sound heard inside the cab? Would it and what wrap would you recommend?

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

Some headers have a tick that's sounds like a lifter tick. Some exhaust leaks seal when they get hot. Usually an exhaust leak that's there hot stays and gets worse.

Eddie 70 Senior Enthusiast

Eddie 70

Posted
Posted

As long as they have a nice thick flange a decent gasket and some kind of locking bolts, Stage 8, they should be pretty good at point where they meet the head. The collector end should have a nice gasket there and some locking bolts too. Wrapping them may help with noise and under hood Temps. I've never wrapped any. I was afraid water might soak in and help them rust.

Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

Aftermarket headers can transmit more engine sounds than stock cast units, the long tubes in my Vette made for some interesting new noises that was easily fixed by more application of the right pedal.

wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted

Headers will always have more pronounced engine noise...just have to run a smoke test to make sure the flange isn't leaking.

Kbuell21 Enthusiast

Kbuell21

Posted
Posted

Has anyone wrapped them? If so did it deaden the tick and what wrap did you use? Or any recommendations on what brand/type to use? Thanks for the help

thewhitestallion Senior Enthusiast

thewhitestallion

Posted
Posted

I have long tubes on my Camaro, while I understand all engines and headers are different mine do not leak at all. The only sound difference they made once I put them on was it made my exhaust note much louder and throaty-er. If your exhaust is making a ticking noise then you have an exhaust leak, period.

 

Have you tried to see if the exhaust is leaking yourself? OP are you getting these put on at a dealership or an automotive shop that does aftermarket modifications.

  • 4 weeks later...
ajmalian Enthusiast

ajmalian

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Did you ever figure out what the sound was? I'm having same problem with my headers.

 

 

Unfortunately not. In fact now I have installed long tube headers and even changed my cylinder head because the dealership had over torqued the bolts on the headers and ruined the threads in the cylinder head. After ALL that, still the sound seems to be there. I took it to a performance shop...they studied the truck inside out and it seems no leaks. They did however detect a minor amount of leakage from the flex pipe that connects my headers to my cat-back, that too when in reverse while holding the brakes down tight in order to put the engine under load, however they said that amount of leakage was normal from a flex pipe in any car, modified or stock. They proposed I could delete the flex pipe and weld on a solid pipe and change the coupling connection to a more secure flange type connection and hopefully that should do the trick...hopefully. And to answer the gasket issues, there is absolutely none.

 

So....should you or anyone ever find the problem, please let me know...solution can be found once a problem is isolated.

 

Look forward to your reply.

Kbuell21 Enthusiast

Kbuell21

Posted
Posted

My solution after trying and trying was to trade it in for a 2017. Sucks I loved that truck but I love this one even more. I was going to try one more thing and that was replace the cat on the drivers side but it was to expensive to risk it. If you ever figure it out let me know I would really like to know what it was causing it. Good luck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hoginedgewood
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Hoginedgewood · Posted

      I thought I was building a HD 3500 srw, maybe I was lost.
    • Coastie05
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      No doubt, I definitely agree with you. However, considering the 6.2 and 3.0 have been catastrophically failing with very little miles, I figured I would put trouble free. I’m at 18,4xx and still not a single issue.  
    • KARNUT
      Slate Electric Truck

      By KARNUT · Posted

      It’s never dry here but it gets hot. My 4 vehicles I keep at home drive an 18 mile loop. One 6 days a week. Two about 3 days each and one once a month. Only one goes on trips about 4 times a year 1000 to 2000 miles each time. One 26 years old gets driven once a month for 22 years. One 14 years old goes 6 days a week. The other two are recent at 2 and 4 years. All are performing normal no extra service other than that would be half of recommended or severe service in the maintenance manual. No extra water or steam out the exhaust or premature plug wear. I would consider an 18 mile loop would be enough. So apparently once a month at 18 miles for 22 years has kept the collector car running well. About 45 minutes a month. 
    • newdude
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By newdude · Posted

      It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...