Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I just wanted to post that the hose clamp fix worked for me too, and my seat had some pretty good movement in it before it. Very surprised it was such a simple fix!

Edited by RBSilvy85
  • Like 1
Posted

If you are running with the seat all the way down then it will rock front to back. I found this on mine after the really tall service tech drove it and 4 trips trying to get them to fix it. It will also sink if not raised far enough. The problem is in the 4 link seat suspension, if it is too low the links do not have the mechanical advantage to keep the seat from rocking back and forth.

 

 

Does this issue only affect manual seats or does it apply to the 10-way adjustable, too? Just curious.

Posted

 

 

Does this issue only affect manual seats or does it apply to the 10-way adjustable, too? Just curious.

I believe it only affects the power seat option. Mine is power, not sure if it is 8 or 10-way though.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just his clamped mine and said f it

Do you have a picture so I can see where you are clamping it? I have the same issue.

 

I also just clamped my 2016 (Ya my 2016 still had the seat shifting and clunk issue) and it worked like a champ! No more shift, the seat stays in place when making a turn. #JUSTCLAMPIT

Do you have a picture of where you clamped it? I am having the same issue.

Posted

I broke down after dealing with the movement for the last 8-10 months and had the dealer check it out today. Started doing a lot of squeaking here the last week or two along with more noticeable movement side to side and front to back and I was fed up. They said they had to order a new frame and it will be in sometime tomorrow. Not sure how long this fix will hold up as I have fallen way behind on reading this thread; and don't know of anyone else has went this route. I imagine if it uses the same parts everyone is replacing with the hose clamps, then not long.

 

 

-Skeet

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Awesome work here guys! I've been trying for the last month figuring out what was moving in my seat. Came across this thread. Didn't believe this was going to fix it...but it seems to have! My dealer thought I was going crazy and why would this be that big of a deal. I told them this $53,000 brand new truck felt like sh!t driving it (also the tranny is really annoying as well). Many thanks guys for figuring this out!

Posted

Awesome work here guys! I've been trying for the last month figuring out what was moving in my seat. Came across this thread. Didn't believe this was going to fix it...but it seems to have! My dealer thought I was going crazy and why would this be that big of a deal. I told them this $53,000 brand new truck felt like sh!t driving it (also the tranny is really annoying as well). Many thanks guys for figuring this out!

Most Dealer service "ADVISORS" are pretty well trained to try to deflect any warranty claims. I had the seat track replaced on my 2014 at around 5000 miles due to seat movement issues. It started doing it again at around 61000 miles and 2.5 years later and I traded it in for 2016 Denali 6.2 problem solved "SO FAR"

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I have purchased a 2016 Sierra SLT and only had for a month and a few weeks ago i have started experiencing this exact movement clunk sound when turning corners. Anybody have any luck with the dealerships solving this issue?

 

I have not brought the truck in yet but would like to arm myself with some information before I go. I know how much the dealership is unwilling to admit when there is an issue.

 

Very disappointing considering the price of these vehicles and the fact this issue is still happening.

 

I am in Canada but that shouldn't make a difference.

Edited by Darrin89
Posted

If you'd read this thread, the cheapest, easiest fix that works is the hose clamp fix. You don't need the rubber underneath the clamp though. Many have insisted in going back to the dealer with the problem only returning. The clamp fix is the permanent solution. Save yourself time, headache and aggravation from the dealer.

Posted

Well I am gonna see at least what the dealer says. I also have a friend who is a GM mechanic and going to get some inside info on any bulletins issued.

Posted

To each his own. This is what I'm trying to tell you. The TSB they have for the seat doesn't last. They practically take your seat apart and some who have had it done say it became worse after the dealer fixed it. This thread has the TSB listed. Just trying to help bud and save you hassle. You can fix it for $2 and it will never move again. But if you feel you need to go to the dealer then get you some :dunno:

  • Like 1
Posted

I really only noticed seat cover movement and had that worked on under warranty. Said they secured it and had the seat cover move on the way home from dealership. They ended up replacing seat bottom cover. It does not seem to move as badly as original so far, but it does move. Anybody come up with a fix for that? I have looked at how it is mounted and really not much holding it from sliding out of place. Whole seat started moving, as others have described on here, only after seat cover was replaced. Going to try hose clamp fix.

Posted

Most Dealer service "ADVISORS" are pretty well trained to try to deflect any warranty claims. I had the seat track replaced on my 2014 at around 5000 miles due to seat movement issues. It started doing it again at around 61000 miles and 2.5 years later and I traded it in for 2016 Denali 6.2 problem solved "SO FAR"

I wanted to add a bit of info here. If I had a do over I would have tried the clamp fix and most likely lived happily ever after and maybe still been driving my 2014 SLT. However I decided to MAKE them fix it and right after they FIXED it with a new seat track the bottom seat heater quit working. Then the side of the leather on the bottom came lose at the threads (most likely from them messing with it) and they replaced that and then the seat cooling became intermittent AND THE BOTTOM HEATING WENT OUT AGAIN. Out of warranty of course so my suggestion is to try this simple fix before you allow the dealership monkeys to mess your truck up. Why take the chance on the monkey boys screwing other things up PUT THE CLAMPS ON MAN

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This video may not be the exact content for the joke thread but its a lot of laughs so here it is, I've only watched a portion of it so far but if anyone is looking for some light hearted good soap box driving action, its here. As a note in the upper left of the screen it shows the number out of 100 to refer back to any particular vehicle for comment !.    https://www.facebook.com/reel/1351928276956715
    • Did have to make 1 modification because of the WeatherTech rear mud flaps and that was needing 3 longer screws than what came with the install package. 😄
    • Picked up the liners yesterday. Installed passenger side WITHOUT any modifications. All mounting holes lined up perfectly. Rain is interfering today with drivers side. Very Happy! Will add pics when finished
    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...