Jump to content

Seat Movement Issues

jdvaughn

By jdvaughn
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Uknow87 Enthusiast

Uknow87

Posted
Posted

Pretty much. There are two plastic washers that are on the bulletin. It states to install them as well and A tube of lube. I couldn’t get the washers in and left it with just the retainer clip. It’s been over a month and haven’t heard it or felt it move since. It was about $20 for all, $12 was just for the lube.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It'll be back, have no worries, lol. Dealer fixed mine with that clip and it lasted about 3000 miles.
  • Like 1
  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

hotrodz37
hotrodz37

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a few others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I bu

GMC-AT
GMC-AT

whatever... I'm sure 2013 Chevy was perfect and had no issue. I'm sure your 1996 Ford is also perfect and never had any issues ... The truth is that every car/truck, every year has it's issues. Th

tanner709
tanner709

Thanks for this.   Just re-quoting for all the new members because I spent about 20 minutes trying to find the fix, with pics.

Posted Images

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Roscopcoletrain said:

Hose clamps it is then lol 

 

It will take you longer with the hose clamps then it will with the process I just did. All the hose clamps are doing is limiting the movement of the electric motor where it bolts on. Same thing I did with closing the gap on the motor bracket and adding 1 washer to the bolt.

  • Like 1
6.2_GMC_DEN Enthusiast

6.2_GMC_DEN

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, TJay74 said:

Ok, based on the above pictures that were shown I fixed mine last night. It literally took me 10 minutes to fix the issue.

 

Push the drivers side seat all the way back and all the way up. There are two up functions on the switch, make sure both the rear and front sections are up. Look by the center console side of the seat on the underside, you will see the motor there that actuates the front of the seat up. It is bolted in a black metal bracket, has a T30 torx bolt holding it in and the bolt is fully seated but has a gap by the head.

 

That is the issue, the gap. You can grab that motor as it is on a rod that goes across the front of the seat and is what rotates the front of the seat up. Grasp the motor and move it side to side, you will hear and feel the "clunk" that is felt when you are turning. Here is the fix, it is stupid easy and simple.

 

You will need some channel lock pliers, a T30 torx bit and a flat washer. Remove the T30 torx bolt and pull it out. You will notice it is a shouldered bolt, only threaded about a 1/4" or so. Now take the pliers and grab the bracket ears and bend them in together slightly. Just enough to take up the gap that allowed the motor to rock side to side. Now with a washer that will slide onto the bolt and down to the head, slide the washer on and then put the motor back into the bracket and slide the bolt/washer back into place and tighten the bolt down. Make sure to not bind the bolt up, check operation of the front height seat motor and make sure it goes up and down properly.

 

Thats it, you have now fixed the seat clunk on the seat. Had mine done for two days now, no more clunk in mine either.

Thanks for liking.

  • Like 1
BluEyeItln Enthusiast

BluEyeItln

Posted
Posted

Is this different than the original instructions? 

sk Senior Enthusiast

sk

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 8/10/2018 at 10:45 AM, Uknow87 said:
On 8/10/2018 at 10:16 AM, pgamboa said:


Pretty much. There are two plastic washers that are on the bulletin. It states to install them as well and A tube of lube. I couldn’t get the washers in and left it with just the retainer clip. It’s been over a month and haven’t heard it or felt it move since. It was about $20 for all, $12 was just for the lube.
 

It'll be back, have no worries, lol. Dealer fixed mine with that clip and it lasted about 3000 miles.

 

I just reached up under the seat and installed the black clip (I got it online for about $6).  For added support I wrapped black zip ties around it to hold it against the white spacer shown in the pics.

 

Over 25,000 miles on the truck since then and absolutely no seat movement at all ...

Edited by sk
  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
 
I just reached up under the seat and installed the black clip (I got it online for about $6).  For added support I wrapped black zip ties around it to hold it against the white spacer shown in the pics.
 
Over 25,000 miles on the truck since then and absolutely no seat movement at all ...

Nice! Yeah, I realized the instructions to remove the seat cushion and pan was to lube the bar. [emoji23].


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BluEyeItln Enthusiast

BluEyeItln

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, sk said:

 

I just reached up under the seat and installed the black clip (I got it online for about $6).  For added support I wrapped black zip ties around it to hold it against the white spacer shown in the pics.

 

Over 25,000 miles on the truck since then and absolutely no seat movement at all ...

 Do you happen to have a picture of that?

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
 Do you happen to have a picture of that?

5ec7e84efe2cff945ee65763801274bd.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BluEyeItln Enthusiast

BluEyeItln

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


5ec7e84efe2cff945ee65763801274bd.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But where did he put the ties?

  • Like 1
sk Senior Enthusiast

sk

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, BluEyeItln said:

Oh. I thought he did something different.  

Actually I did.  No pictures but I just ran the first tie like it says but added a second tie diagonally.  In pgamboa's picture it would go from the lower left of the white clip (under but against the rail) to the upper right of the black clip (above but against the rail).  Basically the first tie keeps the black clip on the rail and my additional second tie keeps the 2 clips tightly against each other.

BowtieFever17 Enthusiast

BowtieFever17

Posted
Posted
On 6/17/2018 at 7:29 AM, 6.2_GMC_DEN said:

My seat was very loose side to side and front to back, it also made popping and creaking  noises especially when making turns with truck. After several trips to Dealer and paying for a half baked repair I had enough. I fixed my self and Installed washers on seat adjuster that moves the seat up and down and seat bottom tilt. The factory bolts threads bottom out and do not allow a tight fit and even with the plastic spacer the Dealer puts in per the bulletin there is still excess play and movement. See pics below with space I am talking about and pics on how to fix. I checked several other seats and they all have the same issue. This is a design flaw from the factory and I can't believe they have not addressed it.

 

Left side upper before fix.jpeg

Left side upper after fix.jpeg

Right side lower before fix.jpeg

Right side lower after fix.jpeg

I did this to my seat last night and it worked great.  My seat is now rock solid and no movement.

  • Thanks 1
BluEyeItln Enthusiast

BluEyeItln

Posted
Posted

Do we need these for both front seats?  I only ask because I never sit in the passenger.  LOL

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      Bench seat swap for 2021-2024 suburban

      By davester · Posted

      probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...