Jump to content

Rear View MIrror Options

brisk00

By brisk00
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 247
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Semedar
Semedar

I took some pictures to maybe help some people! I saw that there are three plugs up there! One for the rear view mirror and two I don't know what for. I'm hoping it's for the rear view mirror camera o

mfbearded
mfbearded

did mine today...its a quick and easy upgrade. ill provide a quick run down of the process.  the plastic cover came off at first in one piece. gently pried at the sides and it slide right off. th

brisk00
brisk00

So I finally had time to do mine yesterday.  Like others have said, the hardest part is removing the black cover behind the mirror.  It's in two pieces.  I was able to get the larger piece loose relat

Posted Images

Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just installed the new plug and play auto dimming mirror.... Ugh...that was not a 20 minute install. My biggest issue was the amount of glue used to hold the hidden harness plug.  Wow, that sucker was stuck and glue was actually in the pin holes.  90 minutes, a couple of cuts on my hands, and some divine intervention (blind luck) at the end carried me through the project... 

My tips....

  1. To take the large panel off of the mirror base, just grab it, squeeze and pull.  It pops right off.    You can remove the mirror screw and the mirror at that point and get it out of your way....and then detach the small panel.   NOTE that attaching the new mirror/panel is NOT the reverse order of removal.   More on that later.
  2. I have no idea how to separate the small and large panels without severely disfiguring the tabs....
  3. The screws that hold the onstar/light panel are T10 and T15. (not T9)  I didn't need any special hot glue or magnetic driver.  That part was easy in my opinion.
  4. The tough part was the connector glued down.  I cut around the glue as much as I could with a small screw driver.  I tried to use and exacto blade but it was too flimsy and one slip could cut wires.  I used the above member's method of cutting the glue back and grabbing the connector with a pair of pliers.  Well, I first cracked the connector slighty.  I tried again to remove more glue and tried again...after the 3rd try I was finally able to detach the connector.  Unfortunately one side of the connector remained attached and now the connector was broken.?  So BE CAREFUL grabbing the connector with a pair of pliers to break it free.
  5. There was one female terminal on the outside that was now not being held in well.  The white part fell off and I took that opportunity to clean the glue out of holes.  That part crumbled into 3 pieces easily so now there was nothing to hold the outer terminal or nothing to snap the connector in place.  Somehow, someway, I was able to insert the two white pieces and press the free terminal in enough and plug it all in!!  I honestly didn't think that last terminal would plug in, but it did....and I'm so lucky.
  6. NOTE:  The small and large panels around the NEW mirror need to assembled AFTER the mirror is plugged in and the mirror screw is torqued.  It can't be pre-assembled like when you removed it due to the mirror mount difference.   Mount the mirror and then reassemble the small and large panel around the mirror shaft and snap them together. 

 

Some fun pictures for you all.  May you not have as much glue as I did and then maybe this would be an easy 20 min job.

  IMG_2565.JPG.d59904285bca832289da66435c1be574.JPGIMG_2567.JPG.753d446bb24d9ab54913a1dd6e4205e2.JPGIMG_2568.JPG.318ad9fdb84a90e6525bfaae83534389.JPG

Edited by Codeman00
  • Like 2
Method2Madness Enthusiast

Method2Madness

Posted
Posted

Yikes. This is exactly why I went the route I did. Sorry you had such a hard time.

Those considering this mod, may want to consider a Gentex universal unit from eBay. It includes everything you need (except fuse tap) and literally takes about 30 minutes (if that).




I just installed the new plug and play auto dimming mirror.... Ugh...that was not a 20 minute install. My biggest issue was the amount of glue used to hold the hidden harness plug.  Wow, that sucker was stuck and glue was actually in the pin holes.  90 minutes, a couple of cuts on my hands, and some divine intervention (blind luck) at the end carried me through the project... 
My tips....
  1. To take the large panel off of the mirror base, just grab it, squeeze and pull.  It pops right off.    You can remove the mirror screw and the mirror at that point and get it out of your way....and then detach the small panel.   NOTE that attaching the new mirror/panel is NOT the reverse order of removal.   More on that later.
  2. I have no idea how to separate the small and large panels without severely disfiguring the tabs....
  3. The screws that hold the onstar/light panel are T10 and T15. (not T9)  I didn't need any special hot glue or magnetic driver.  That part was easy in my opinion.
  4. The tough part was the connector glued down.  I cut around the glue as much as I could with a small screw driver.  I tried to use and exacto blade but it was too flimsy and one slip could cut wires.  I used the above member's method of cutting the glue back and grabbing the connector with a pair of pliers.  Well, I first cracked the connector slighty.  I tried again to remove more glue and tried again...after the 3rd try I was finally able to detach the connector.  Unfortunately one side of the connector remained attached and now the connector was broken.[emoji35]  So BE CAREFUL grabbing the connector with a pair of pliers to break it free.
  5. There was one female terminal on the outside that was now not being held in well.  The white part fell off and I took that opportunity to clean the glue out of holes.  That part crumbled into 3 pieces easily so now there was nothing to hold the outer terminal or nothing to snap the connector in place.  Somehow, someway, I was able to insert the two white pieces and press the free terminal in enough and plug it all in!!  I honestly didn't think that last terminal would plug in, but it did....and I'm so lucky.
  6. NOTE:  The small and large panels around the NEW mirror need to assembled AFTER the mirror is plugged in and the mirror screw is torqued.  It can't be pre-assembled like when you removed it due to the mirror mount difference.   Mount the mirror and then reassemble the small and large panel around the mirror shaft and snap them together. 
 
Some fun pictures for you all.  May you not have as much glue as I did and then maybe this would be an easy 20 min job.  I was lucky.
 

Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted

I will have to say I'm loving the auto dimming mirror.  It's just like my 2013 Silverado...   I didn't appreciate getting blinded and then flipping the tab only to not be able to see anything. 

 

I'm happy I made the mod even though it was hell.   (I wonder if heating up the glue/connector with a hair dryer would have helped?)

  • Like 1
JR09country Enthusiast

JR09country

Posted
Posted



I will have to say I'm loving the auto dimming mirror.  It's just like my 2013 Silverado...   I didn't appreciate getting blinded and then flipping the tab only to not be able to see anything. 
 
I'm happy I made the mod even though it was hell.   (I wonder if heating up the glue/connector with a hair dryer would have helped?)


Dang, you had more glue than I did. I was worried about breaking the connector pulling on it with pliers but i did not have a better option. Glad it worked out in the long run.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

bobboberton1 Enthusiast

bobboberton1

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

 

I’ve read over and over that you just “gently squeeze and pull” the black plastic cover over the mirror and that this only takes “about 10min in total.” Guys, I’ve seriously been yanking on this black cover for 10 minutes and it’s not breaking loose. I feel like I’m missing something. Can anyone add more insight other than “gently pulling?” Does the small piece need to come off before the large piece? Can this safely be pried off with a plastic tool? I feel like I’m missing something. 

Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted
Hey everyone,
 
I’ve read over and over that you just “gently squeeze and pull” the black plastic cover over the mirror and that this only takes “about 10min in total.” Guys, I’ve seriously been yanking on this black cover for 10 minutes and it’s not breaking loose. I feel like I’m missing something. Can anyone add more insight other than “gently pulling?” Does the small piece need to come off before the large piece? Can this safely be pried off with a plastic tool? I feel like I’m missing something. 

There was nothing gentle about the squeeze. I grabbed it and squeezed it firmly, rocked it back and forth to remove it. It took some force.

Do not try to remove the small piece...remove it as a set.

I personally would detach the on star panel and make sure you can free the plug /harness before you remove the mirror. Just to make sure you don’t run into the excess glue problem like I did. Try heating with a hair dryer and see if that helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Vicarod Enthusiast

Vicarod

Posted
Posted
On 1/1/2020 at 9:01 PM, Codeman00 said:

I will have to say I'm loving the auto dimming mirror.  It's just like my 2013 Silverado...   I didn't appreciate getting blinded and then flipping the tab only to not be able to see anything. 

 

I'm happy I made the mod even though it was hell.   (I wonder if heating up the glue/connector with a hair dryer would have helped?)

I destroyed my connector as well...there was an excessive amount of glue used to hold it in place on the headliner.

But, it still worked when plugged in.  Just all the locking features of the connector are not there anymore.  I may have zip tied it together...can't remember now.

  • Like 1
sully9560 Enthusiast

sully9560

Posted
Posted
Hey everyone,
 
I’ve read over and over that you just “gently squeeze and pull” the black plastic cover over the mirror and that this only takes “about 10min in total.” Guys, I’ve seriously been yanking on this black cover for 10 minutes and it’s not breaking loose. I feel like I’m missing something. Can anyone add more insight other than “gently pulling?” Does the small piece need to come off before the large piece? Can this safely be pried off with a plastic tool? I feel like I’m missing something. 
I was able to use a plastic pry tool to pop the skinny piece in the middle off then the rest slides off

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
bobboberton1 Enthusiast

bobboberton1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok all

13 hours ago, Codeman00 said:


There was nothing gentle about the squeeze. I grabbed it and squeezed it firmly, rocked it back and forth to remove it. It took some force.

Do not try to remove the small piece...remove it as a set.

I personally would detach the on star panel and make sure you can free the plug /harness before you remove the mirror. Just to make sure you don’t run into the excess glue problem like I did. Try heating with a hair dryer and see if that helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the help. I was able to get this done in about 30 min. The previous explanations of how to perform this repair were excellent help. I'll add a few things. 

- Prying off the black cover - I ended up using a screwdriver with a towel to prevent damage. A nylon pry tool would have been the right thing for the job. Start on one side to pry as you pull, it will break loose and work around. Gently pulling as others described did not work for me. 
- Removing the mirror - it has two ball joints. As I was trying to rotate the black cover out of the way I hadn’t realized it has two ball joints, one at the mount and one at the mirror. I was able to flex both down and move the cover to access the covet to access the torx. 

- Separating these two pieces after removal of the mirror - I should have taken a pic, but I was able to use a small screwdriver blade and push the locking part of the plastic tab back out of the way of the catch. I pulled these apart no problem after that, no damage. 

- Prying the "L" pieces off the onstar / light unit. Start at the part near the lights and gently work around. No problems here. 

- Now for the glued connector. I used a small flat blade screwdriver and poked around the exposed edges of the connector and gently pried. This took a lot of finesse and patience. I don't think you could have directed heat on the glue enough to do anything with a hairdryer, but saving this for when its sat in the sun during the summer might have helped. Be patient, and keep working the edge. One caution is towards the end, I didn't realize there were holes in the plastic headliner backer, one of which was under the connector where it was glued. I almost poked the screwdriver through the headliner cloth on accident. In the end, the connector only had a small dab of glue to peel off, and clicked in to the new mirror just fine. Dang that is some tacky stuff. 

- Re - assembly - Connect mirror, mount it and set screw, large plastic cover, small cover, then the torn screws in the on star unit. Some people explained difficultly here with the larger recessed screws. Magnetize your driver, and keeping poking at it until you line up. Had both done quickly. 

Thanks to all on the forum, this is pretty easy, but only because of the steps others have posted. I hope this additional info is helpful. 
Glad my 2019 now has auto dim like my 2007 did, although my 2007 had the temp in the mirror which was an added continence. 

 

 

Edited by bobboberton1
  • Like 1
Zelas Enthusiast

Zelas

Posted
Posted
On 8/31/2019 at 1:06 PM, Semedar said:

If y’all need the part number or info on that rear view wire cover for the 2019 Chevy Silverado, here’s the info for it. It’s only about $10.

 

According to my receipt, I believe the part number is 84049173. And it’s called SL-N-Cover (16067-CT).

 

It’s a special order from the dealer and would probably take a week until they receive it.

01DE54FD-7279-451E-A11A-F1B45364BC04.jpeg

Did this work for you ? Did you have to buy other parts as well?

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Reading all the comments here, I’ve come to the conclusion that GM didn’t land this hidden connector to land this upgrade easy. I think they landed this connector to cut down on headliner harness part #s. The glueing down seems like the route they took so no rattling would be heard. They should should have used a clip slot retention instead of hot glue to secure the connector.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • MASONV88888888
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Rattle in the rear!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I have 2 choices. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...