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So, let me preface this by saying, as of today 8/14/20, no one still makes hood mounted LED pod light mounts for the new body 2019+ Sierra. Suffice to say, I got tired of waiting.
So, I bought a set of the APS mounts made for the 2019+ Silverado for $75 online. I figured if I hacked them up and it doesn't work, I'm only out $75. Shipped out right away and got them quick.
First thing, these brackets are thick. That was reassuring knowing I'd have to modify them somehow.
Second, the brackets are too long for the driver side. The cut right into the wiper arm when it comes full vertical. I took off 1/4" off both brackets but still had to continue grinding the rear-facing edge down until I had clearance on the driver side. I also had to grind down the outer edges that were making contact with the hood closer to the hood line. Luckily, these APS mounts are beefy and can handle the loss of material. Also, the wiper arm that I grinded into is only like $25 to replace, so ill buy that down the line.
This took a LOT of trial and error mounting them on the hood, taking them off, grinding more off, refitting, removing, etc. This won't work unless you have a cutoff wheel, grinding wheel, etc. And your trial and error will likely cost you a wiper arm as well.
By Steve Dave
Has anyone else had issues with their lower glovebox rattling on their Chevy Silverado?
If I open it and hold the lower glovebox down, the rattle goes away, but as soon as I close it it rattles on the freeway and rough roads. I've tried to re-tighten the bolts and put duct tape over the metal plugs, which didn't help.
Any other ideas?
I have a 2003 Yukon XL 2500. The radio started to cut in and out, and then soon gets to the point where there is no audio at all. No chimes and no radio. However the rear radio headphones still work. Thus I thought this was the bose amp and changed the amp. The new amp made no difference until I pulled both fuses and checked everything. I put the fuses back in and I had sound. Great. 2 hours later on the new amp the radio started to cut out again and then I had no sound. No chimes, no radio.
I can restore the radio sound by pulling the radio fuse for 5 minutes, plugging it back in and all audio is restored. This does not last long and soon I will be back to no audio at all. It is not the amp as a brand new amp does the exact same thing. So how do I figure out what is wrong? I don't want to start replacing things as that did not go well with the amp. I have read that maybe there is a bad speaker, but since the speakers plug into the amp a bad speaker should only impact the amp. Also since the audio starts to cut in and out many times (longer each time) until there is no audio at all I can't imagine a bad speaker causing that. Once the speaker is detected it should cut the audio off until reset.
Only pulling the radio fuse, waiting and then putting it back, will restore the audio. Is the radio bad? I pulled the codes and there seems to be nothing for the radio once the audio is lost.
Thanks for any help!
2015 Silverado 1500
This weekend I changed my rear rotors. It was a simple swap, old ones off, new ones on. The next morning I went to start the truck and barely got it to turn over and the DIC threw a message up saying service trailer brake system. My radio also completely reset and when I press on my brakes all lights dim. Any suggestions in what this could be?
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